Wacky Races to Dar Es Salaam

Another drive day but the rain does not dampen our spirits as we look forward to getting to Zanzibar. By the time we reach Dar Es Salaam, the sun has dried the clouds and we drive past white, sandy beaches on our way to the short ferry crossing we have before reaching our overnight stop in Mikadi Beach. An hour’s queue for a 10 minute crossing gives us ample opportunity to watch the locals in their brightly coloured dresses and suits mingling with local Moslems in full hijab as they trawl the quayside stalls for their shopping. Loading on the ferry is like joining the Wacky Races, engines racing in overland trucks, taxis, cars, tuktuks and mopeds as they wait for the off, jostling for the premium place to get off first at the other end. It’s a tense ten minute crossing as they prepare for offloading, then a stalemate in traffic as those offloading meet those loading for the return journey head on. I’m just glad we make it as I’m sure we were an overland truck or two overloaded.

The camp site is 1km from the quay and the signs on the entry gates telling guests that to venture outside is to take your life in your hands does nothing to reassure us, but it is a beautiful spot with beachside bar, pool and spacious, open air, hot water showers. It’s a race to pitch the tents before deciding whether to go in the pool, the sea, or the hot water showers. The showers win for me and I am not disappointed.

After dinner, we drop down to the beach bar to rock in the hammocks and sip a few beers watching the sun go down. All around the site are signs saying “ Inside= Safe; Outside= Danger”. How dangerous can it be?