Today we cross the border, uneventfully, into Tanzania and the change in the countryside is immediately apparent. I say uneventfully, but we have been warned in advance that this road is in bandit country and that we will not be stopping as we travel through the mining towns FOR ANY REASON. As we travel past burnt scrubland at the sides of the road leaving behind the lush greenery of Rwanda it is not hard to believe it.
Tonight we also have a respite from the rigours of camping and, as we pull into to the gated compound in the centre of the village of Nyakhanazi, all the kids run up to greet us. It is a strange little guest house, with rooms around a little yard. Each room has a dusty double bed (4 poster with mossie net) and Toni and I are lucky to also have an ensuite toilet. Now I guess that conjures up visions of white tiled walls, flush loo, a pedestal sink and perhaps even a shower? Dream on. Ensuite toilet equals a hole in the ground and bucket of water to wash it down. This is Africa.
Most of us decide to forego the pleasure of an African shower this evening. That’s a bucket with several holes in it, suspended over your head whilst someone (??) fills it with water. We are however, looking forward to the African meal that the locals are going to prepare for us.
Whilst we are waiting, the kids get more courage to approach us, staring. Creeping up behind us, they giggle and push each other closer forward. They are cute little ragamuffins, in dirty, ragged clothes many sizes too big. I think of all the bags of children’s clothes I have thrown out over the years. Big eyes and shy grins are all around us. They are fascinated by Mel’s blue nail polish so she brings it out. As they clamour around, boys and girls alike, she gives each child one painted fingernail. One audacious boy manages to trick her into painting a nail on each hand.
Then Aimee brings out some balloons. As the news gets out she is mobbed by kids and comes back empty handed and completely traumatised.
The icing on the cake, literally, is the bright pink and royal. It’s Trudy’s birthday and we were lucky enough to find a suitable birthday cake big enough for everybody and all the staff who have made us such a lovely meal.