Next morning, we have a new recruit on board the truck. Unfortunately, he had been stuck at the border as he had failed to get a necessary visa prior to arrival in Malawi and needed to get one retrospectively.
After dropping him off and picking up our groceries for the next 3 days, we head off to Kande Beach. It’s cloudy and overcast when we arrive and the waves are choppy on the white sand of the steeply sloping beach which stretches as far as the eye can see in either direction. A few of us decide to upgrade, but there are only a limited number of single rooms. The matter is decided at a turn of the cards, and as the losing parties, Hannah and I decide to share a twin cabin on the beach front. With hot showers and a laundry service, we are looking forward to another 3 days of sun (??), sea (freshwater) and sand. It’s a tough life.
With not a lot of activities on offer, the first stop is the bar to check out the local beer and the hammocks on the decking overlooking the lake.
Next morning, we are enjoying a leisurely breakfast, when two people ride past on the most beautiful horses, coats gleaming. A brief chat with the lead rider and Trudy, Maria and I are booked for an afternoon ride through the countryside and along the beach, with an option to take the horses into the lake for a cool down at the end of the ride. Given the cloudy day it won’t be too hot to ride in the afternoon
This option prompts a debate over whether it’s safe to go into the water here. Malawi is well known to have a high risk of bilharzias and there appear to be 3 schools of thought.
1. The risk is limited
2. The risk is high and the consequences grave
3. The risk exists but the solution is a simple pill available in any chemist at low cost
Trudy has recently undergone surgery and is unwillingly to risk further illness. Others have already decided to go scuba diving in the lake and take the risk. I remain undecided.
By lunchtime, all the clouds have burnt off and it’s a scorching hot day! Of course! Arriving at the stables we cannot believe the conditions. No horse has ever been pampered like these. And in the middle of Africa. It’s incredible to us. Setting out, we are told about each animal’s idiosyncrasies and how they prefer to be handled. As we ride through the bush, along tracks and through local villages, we gain an appreciation of life for the locals. There are plenty of opportunities to trot and canter but we are conscious of the heat and keep it to a minimum. Our guide has thoughtfully provided us with water bottle attached to the saddle but the horses have no possibilities to rehydrate. As we pass the local villages it’s clear that the children are not that used to horses and that people on horseback are still cause for discussion.
The ride passes too quickly and soon we are on the final canter and the last leg along the beach back to the campsite. I am persuaded that the risk of bilharzias in this part of Malawi is limited and decide that a bareback ride in the lake is too good an opportunity to miss. A quick change into swim wear and we’re heading down the steep sandy slope into the water. Clover decides that the water is a bit too choppy and is not keen to go in but with some encouragement she eventually heads into the lake. It’s not long before she is up to her shoulders and enjoying the cooling water, whilst I try to stop myself sliding off her wet back.
I am happy and exhausted at the end of it and the first beer of the evening slips down without touching the sides.
Next day, Kanyo has promised us a hog roast for the evening meal and the last job of the day is to select the unfortunate animal to be slaughtered as the roasting must commence early in the morning and be supervised throughout the day. I am NOT on hog supervision. I am on sand supervision and spend most of the day fully committed to my work.
The hog roast is a great success for dinner and then it’s back to the bar for some liquid refreshment and a few games of pool. The more I drink the better I get!
After dropping him off and picking up our groceries for the next 3 days, we head off to Kande Beach. It’s cloudy and overcast when we arrive and the waves are choppy on the white sand of the steeply sloping beach which stretches as far as the eye can see in either direction. A few of us decide to upgrade, but there are only a limited number of single rooms. The matter is decided at a turn of the cards, and as the losing parties, Hannah and I decide to share a twin cabin on the beach front. With hot showers and a laundry service, we are looking forward to another 3 days of sun (??), sea (freshwater) and sand. It’s a tough life.
With not a lot of activities on offer, the first stop is the bar to check out the local beer and the hammocks on the decking overlooking the lake.
Next morning, we are enjoying a leisurely breakfast, when two people ride past on the most beautiful horses, coats gleaming. A brief chat with the lead rider and Trudy, Maria and I are booked for an afternoon ride through the countryside and along the beach, with an option to take the horses into the lake for a cool down at the end of the ride. Given the cloudy day it won’t be too hot to ride in the afternoon
This option prompts a debate over whether it’s safe to go into the water here. Malawi is well known to have a high risk of bilharzias and there appear to be 3 schools of thought.
1. The risk is limited
2. The risk is high and the consequences grave
3. The risk exists but the solution is a simple pill available in any chemist at low cost
Trudy has recently undergone surgery and is unwillingly to risk further illness. Others have already decided to go scuba diving in the lake and take the risk. I remain undecided.
By lunchtime, all the clouds have burnt off and it’s a scorching hot day! Of course! Arriving at the stables we cannot believe the conditions. No horse has ever been pampered like these. And in the middle of Africa. It’s incredible to us. Setting out, we are told about each animal’s idiosyncrasies and how they prefer to be handled. As we ride through the bush, along tracks and through local villages, we gain an appreciation of life for the locals. There are plenty of opportunities to trot and canter but we are conscious of the heat and keep it to a minimum. Our guide has thoughtfully provided us with water bottle attached to the saddle but the horses have no possibilities to rehydrate. As we pass the local villages it’s clear that the children are not that used to horses and that people on horseback are still cause for discussion.
The ride passes too quickly and soon we are on the final canter and the last leg along the beach back to the campsite. I am persuaded that the risk of bilharzias in this part of Malawi is limited and decide that a bareback ride in the lake is too good an opportunity to miss. A quick change into swim wear and we’re heading down the steep sandy slope into the water. Clover decides that the water is a bit too choppy and is not keen to go in but with some encouragement she eventually heads into the lake. It’s not long before she is up to her shoulders and enjoying the cooling water, whilst I try to stop myself sliding off her wet back.
I am happy and exhausted at the end of it and the first beer of the evening slips down without touching the sides.
Next day, Kanyo has promised us a hog roast for the evening meal and the last job of the day is to select the unfortunate animal to be slaughtered as the roasting must commence early in the morning and be supervised throughout the day. I am NOT on hog supervision. I am on sand supervision and spend most of the day fully committed to my work.
The hog roast is a great success for dinner and then it’s back to the bar for some liquid refreshment and a few games of pool. The more I drink the better I get!
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